What can I say but Wow!

I had planned on a blob morning at the pool and then a wee tour I had prebooked in the afternoon.  After yesterday’s   very short and unenjoyable tour I was not holding my breath but it was booked and paid for so that was it. 

I was too late for breakfast, the pool was closed for a function so I set off for another walk in the opposite direction to where I went yesterday.   It was uneventful but a bit different to the previous walk, not so green, and so much quieter. 

I was looking for some street food but nothing was found so I returned to the hotel for a delicious chicken curry and windered why I had even previously contemplated western food previously. Both western meals I’d had here were shockers so hopefully I had learned my lesson. Weird that with all the hotels in the area there are no restaurants (other than those in the hotel) or street food. 

My tour guide collected me from the hotel in a tuktuk. He had some unpronounceable name but spoke very good English that I could easily understand. The ride into the city was pretty much like yesterday’s, perhaps a little less chaotic giving me time to look around as we travelled. 

Arriving in the centre of the city we walked through the mall area again before heading down to the main gaht, this time swarming with people.  Making our way down to the river side we had to virtually step over people to make our way.  On the side of the river were dozens of boats, if you could call them boats. 

Bits of wood, shaped like boats, floating on the water. Some full with people, some not. To get to our boat we had to step into the closest boat then walk along the boat till we got to the next closest one until we got to ours. The idea of sailing round in a stack of bits of woods frightened the hell out of me but I guess if I drown in the Ganges I will resurface as something else and be cleansed if my wrongdoings. 

At least being in a boat way back we were amongst the first to sail off down the river. Well that was shortlived. We only got about 20m away and the motor died so got towed back to where we were, terhered up to the closest boat waiting for another boat to collect it. The new boat arrived and again we moved from boat to boat till we got to ours. Yay we are away. 

Our trip down the river took us south to a cremation spot then north again to the place I was yesterday. There were some beautiful buildings along the way and the guide explained the whys and wherefores of each. 

At the second cremation site he gave me a but more information and I was able to get better photos. Yesterday I wondered why the burning bodies did not give off any smells but the guide told me it is because of the banyan tree wood absorbing smells. Maybe, maybe not. 

Our boat then took us back to where we started and our ‘Captain’ ‘drove’ the boat using my formula - if half of it fits then keep going - things will move out of the way. He did manage to get the boat into a small space but we werent close enough so after another burst of bost hopping I found a spot where I could watch the “Arti” ceremony I had come to see. 

The arti (pronounced ‘aarti’) is one of the most important and popular ceremonies of the Hindu faith. It is a prayerful ceremony performed in extolled greeting and thanksgiving of the Deities where devotees are reminded of God’s glorious presence and providence.

Often called the ‘ceremony of light’, the arti involves waving lighted wicks before the sacred images to infuse the flames with the Deities’ love, energy and blessings. It is performed by sadhus (Hindu monks) and pujaris (attendants to the Deities).

Along with – or sometimes instead of – flames from ghee-soaked wicks, the light from camphor is also used. 

I had a great view and it was fascinating to watch and be part of a crowd of people who were totally absorbed in the ceremony. 

People come from all over India to participate in the holy activities of Varanasi. 

As the ceremony was drawing to a close I was getting concerned as to how all of these people were going to get out of the space we were tightly confined to. I needn’t have worried as we left just before the show finished and found our way back to the main street while it was still calm. 

On the way to the tuktuk we stopped at a hole in the wall silk wholesaler. After my last silk experience I was not interested but said I would be back tomorrow with my outfit to match something. That got me out of there quickly and soon we were on our way home. 

By the time we got back I was starving so once more dined in the hotel; this time an aubergine dish. The aubergine had been smoked and roasted in a tomato based sauce and were absolutely delish. A smoky flavour, smooth texture and pops coming from the mustard seeds kept me very very happy. 

A lovely day. Tomorrow by the pool for the day.